Looking back at Iran

Our route through Iran

• Think twice if you want to take your own car into Iran; be prepared for massive amount of bureaucracy on arrival.
• Make sure you have a Carnet de Passage (unfortunately, this document does not exclude you from the bureaucratic paperwork you can expect).  For more details on the expected paperwork when you enter and leave Iran, please take a look at Thijs' blog.
• Don't try to understand the system, it is in-comprehensive and most Iranian people will agree.
  
• We are sure we were the only people driving a Honda-CRV in the whole country (so better not have a mechanical break down). Make sure the car is serviced and working perfectly before you take it in the country. Spare parts will be difficult to obtain.
• Incredible landscape
• Iranians deserve to be nominated to be the friendliest people in the world
• No cuisine worth mentioning but Iranian people are proud to serve you their special Kebab.
• If someone calls you 'my friend', be aware; he wants your money (applies to all countries).
  
• chaotic traffic, takes a while figuring out how it works (and yes, it does, don't ask how).
• With such chaotic traffic, drivers in Iran are actually pretty good drivers.
  
• Driving rules are western regulations which are not needed in Iran.
• Beware of speed checks on highways by police. Make sure your ownership card/certificate and your passports are always at hand.
• Don't try to speak Arabic with Iranians, they do not appreciate it and prefer the language barrier.
  
• Iranians are curious where you're from, so always be prepared to answer the obvious question, even though almost the complete population (70 million) has just asked you.
• Young (studying) Iranians will approach you and ask you polity to talk to them so they can practice their English.
• Iranians feel honoured when you allow them to have their picture taken with you.
  
• There are as much Bank branches in Iran as Starbucks in New York City, but only one or two are willing to change your money (Melli Bank main branch in town).
• Iranian people are very pleased with visitors and their curiosity is well intended. If an Iranian offers to assist you, he means well and does not expect money in return, he is simply happy to help you (in contrary to many other countries, spoiled by tourism).
• Don't expect much from internet (slow and heavily censored). You will feel as disconnected to the world as Iranians do.
• Warning: Don't try to do a google search on 'proxy server': your laptop will explode.
  
• If you want to taste Shiraz wine, better go to a supermarket in Europe as the Shiraz wine is no longer produced in the Shiraz area.
• Detoxing from alcohol and social media in Iran is part of the experience.
• Iranians are amazingly helpful and hospitable. 
• The baker will always refuse your payment when you buy his fresh bread on the street. Offer him at least 3 times, to make sure he's serious.
• Iranian people are world champion picnickers: they like to set up their tent anywhere also on the not so obvious camping place: roundabouts, top of a car, parks, side of a busy highway, next to the highway in proximity of a Mosque or gasoline station, etc.
• Beware of hotels calling themselves: 'International Hotels' : they are usually very unfriendly to foreigners, charge outrages fees for their censored Internet (per hour) and their Fillet Mignon is as dead and as flat as a pancake.
• The more spelling errors in the menu, the less chance your meal will taste nice.
• Consider to stay in Back Pack hostels: you will meet the most friendly travellers and the exchange of tips, hints and sharing experience is very valuable.
• We would especially like to recommend two backpackers hostels that we really enjoyed: The Niayesh hotel in Shiraz and the Silk Road hotel in Yazd.
• Bring the Lonely Planet for Iran, don't miss it!
• If you want to find the main road to the city center, simply tell your GPS to find any Imam Khomeini street, square or roundabout.
• If you want to meet Iranian people, just take a walk in any park in the evening. Make sure you have an empty stomach as you are likely invited to join complete strangers for dinner at their carpet.
• Always carry pictures of your family (e.g nice little album in your phone) so you can show your new friends your family and pictures of your children.
• Bring lot's of clean long blouses to Iran (women). You need long sleeves and long blouses. It hot and sweaty. 2 blouses for 12 days seemed not enough for me :-)
• We wonder why female travellers from non-Islamic cultures seem to make some kind of statement wearing their scarf wrapped around their head in an attempt to 'cover' their hair but refusing to wear the scarf like local women do. If you don't intend to adapt, what are you doing in Iran?
• Make sure you purchase a reliable GPS gadget: it will save you lots of time and stress. It may save you marriage and hey, you'll have lots of fun in the car when you hear the GPS-voice-over choking on the pronunciation of the street names.
• To keep the relation healthy: do not annoy the GPS, appreciate him and do not make jokes about him when he's constantly 'recalculating' when you do not follow up on his suggestions.
• Try not to cover more than 500 km per day on your travel days. Calculate 'rest-days' to explore the city you are visiting.
• Make sure you have enough chargers in your car so your children (who might like to watch ALL the episodes of Top Gear) while travelling in the car.
•  Enjoy Iran, the people don't deserve to be so isolated and your presence as a guest in their country is an honour for them.

A special thanks for:

• Samira from Persia Tours for arranging our visa to Iran.
• Ishmael from Shiraz: for assisting us at customs and introducing his fixer Ali to us during our challenges in Bandar Abbas.
• A HUGE thank you for Ishmael (a complete stranger who felt sorry for our challenges) at the insurance office in Bandar Abbas for offering to put our month-car-insurance on his name so we could obtain the transit plates to travel through Iran to Turkey.
• Thank you for the police officers in Bandar Abbas at the traffic police for their excellent help and their friendly approach.
• Thank you for both ladies working in the insurance office for not giving up and really bending backwards to help us, against all odds.
• Sebastiaan from Iran Silk Road Reizen for assisting us to compile an itinerary through Iran, offering us his tips, suggestions, ideas.
• To the coffee shop owner in a crap hotel in Hamadan for making me the best Cappuccino in weeks and sharing the hotel-wireless internet password with me.
• For the kind shop owner (actually educated to be an engineer and fluent in English) in Tabriz who made Onno his best and biggest hamburger!
• To all Iranian people who we have met, who offered us their help, tea or food and who patiently assisted us taking our gratitude and smiles as their reward.

We put our hand on our heart and thank you!
Merci!